Showing posts with label Safety. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Safety. Show all posts

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Test & Set a Variable Pressure Relief Valve

I test and set a variable pressure relief valve using reckoning(or estimation).





My Findings

1. The yellow spring is for the lowest pressure range: 20-50PSI

2. The relief valve is relatively insensitive.

3. After spring contact with the valve between 1/8th and 1/4 turn should yield between 22 and 26 pounds blow off pressure.

Adaptive Engineering Articles


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Previous: More Info on Making SS Stranded Wire

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Safety Info on Four Inch PVC Pipe

I went down to the plumbing supply house today and rounded up some info on 4 inch PVC pipe that I believe folks ought to know.





What I learned is:

1. There are more types of PVC pipe than you may suspect.

2. I know of three schedules: Sched 20, Sched 40, and Sched 80.

3. Sched 20 has 1/8" sidewall on 4 inch pipe. Sched 40 has 1/4" sidewall. Sched 80 has to be ordered(at least at the business I went to) so the sidewall thickness couldn't be checked.

4. There are at least two types of core: foam core and solid core. The foam core is NOT able to withstand pressure. If you buy pipe and see bubbles inside the cut end it is not worth a hill of beans as a container.

5. Pipe that does not have a pressure rating is not suitable to withstand pressure. The pressure rating is found just after the SCHED rating.

6. The plumbing supply house "might" cut the length you want, but SCHED 40 solid core pressure rated PVC pipe only arrives in 20 foot lengths. That means you are looking at 45-50 Dollars in outlay for a container that is about 8-10 inches long. Yikes!

UPDATED: More Info on PVC pipe

7. Great link on PVC pipe pressure ratings: Engineeringtoolbox.com. I note that the pressure rating on this site is noticably lower than the pressure rating of the pipe I bought. This is due to the figures being the industry standard. Individual pipe manufacturers are likely to exceed these numbers and will state so on thir product if they do. If not then go with the industry standard.

8. PVC pipe derates to 20 percent at 140F and long term failure occurs above that. Check the link at Engineeringtoolbox.com.


I think this means PVC pipe should be abandoned and move to one of the other plastic pipe materials unless a non-heat environment can be achieved. According to the charts, PB and PEX perform the best in heat conditions, but have about 40 percent of the strength of PVC. CPVC performs marginally better with heat, but has the same strength properties as PVC.

Thanks to commenters for the additional data and links!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Reducing Hexavalent Chromium in Waste Water

UPDATED: 4 Aug 08

I had a viewer on YouTube leave me a comment about the dangers of Hexavalent Chromium in the waste water of my Hydroxy experiments. This made me concerned about what it was I was doing, but the warning only told me to watch the movie "Erin Brokovich" to see how bad it was. Oh, and don't throw away the water.

Well, rather than rely on a movie I decide to find out what OSHA had to say about it. Essientially Hexevalent Chromium, Cr(VI) is a known carcinogen which causes cancer over long periods of exposure. It also causes cell necropsy in the lungs when inhaled. Woah! More reading indicates that the acceptable levels of exposure are set pretty low. This is unlike Trivalent Chromium, Cr(III) which is an essiential trace element.

Now that I know what kind of problem I'm dealing with, I decided to see if there is an industry solution out there. Thus the digging begins and about 2 days later the result I'm looking for pops out at me and the rest can be pieced together pretty quickly. namely, that Fe(II) can be used to reduce Cr(VI) to CR(III). Way cool! Now what does that mean to me?

More digging reveals this adobe file.Tertiary Treatment Chemical Treatment. The third paragraph, titled "Removal of Hexavalent Chromium" contained everything I needed to know about the subject, namely to reduce Cr(VI) I need to add Ferrous Sulfate and Lime to the water and let it sit awhile. It also recommended making sure 5 or 6 atoms of Fe(II) to one atom of Cr(VI) will allow the reduction to occur in timely fashion.

The chemical process is described thus:


Cr6+ + 3Fe2+ → Cr3+ + 3Fe3+

Cr3+ + 3 OH → Cr(OH)3

Fe3+ + 3 OH → Fe(OH)3



So in reading this I see that for every Chromium atom I need 6 Ferrous atoms, and I need three lime molecules for each Fe & Cr. The rough recipe then is 1Cr + 6FeSO4 + 21CaOH. This means for each 1/4 teaspoon of FeSO4 I also need to estimate about 1 teaspoon of lime for the mix. This is a slightly more lime than needed, but that should be fine. The estimate doesn't take into account any side reactions with the electrolyte itself.

From knowledge comes planning and from planning comes action. More to my line of thinking. So I know what the problem is (Cr(VI) is bad), and I know what the plan is(reduce it to Cr(III)). What's left? I need to buy the Ferrous Sulfate and Calcium Hydroxide and begin treating my waste water with it.

To solve this problem, I did some more digging and found The San Jose Scientific web site which sells lab grade ferrus sulfate in 100 gram and 500 gram increments for $8.95 or $21.50 plus shipping.

And here's a site to get the lime: hvchemical.com.

Lastly the MSDS sheet for the lime sold at hvchemical.com.

I've begun Cr(VI reduction studies on my waste water and subsequent articles record what I've done to date.

Hexavalent Chromium Articles


Next: Hexavalent Chromium Initial Test
Previous: What on Earth Am I Doing?

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Safety Tips

I posted this in the HHOInfo forums and feel it's good to repeat here. I may update the post from time to time so it might be good to review it occasionally.

1. I use vinegar in a 1 quart spray bottle to neutralize NaOH or KOH if I suspect I've come in contact with it, then rinse off with fresh water. Keep the vinegar spray bottle within arm's reach of the test location.

2. Eye Goggles and rubber gloves are necessary when working with NaOH or KOH at all times.

3. I wear a good quality rain coat obtained at the local thrift store when running closed tests with NaOH or KOH. For open container tests it isn't so important.

4. I built a test enclosure to perform closed tests in as I've already had the top blow off a Smack's Booster trying to run it on the start(75 Amp) setting of my battery charger. Made a nice dent in the 10 foot ceiling of my garage and might have reached 40-50 feet altitude if outside. I believe the ignition cause was heat in the lead wires, but have not eliminated spark as a possibility.

5. Do not use glass for enclosed tests. Just too unsafe.

6. SS Wire leads in the electrolyzer container should be bulky whenever possible to reduce heat in the leads. If a wire isn't thick enough then wrap multiples together by twisting with vice-grips to produce a larger wire. SS Plate steel straps should be considered in place of SS wire leads due to the greater total cross section of the strap over wire(and thus less heat). SS straps can be made from cooking utensil handles in a pinch like Smack suggests on his website. If you don't like the cost, then get the utensils at the local thrift store, Dollar Tree, or garage sale. If there is a local scrap yard, inquire about purchasing what you need from them - at scrap prices.

7. Any Ammeter reading above 25 Amps during testing is flat dangerous in my opinion as the one blow off I've experienced was measuring 30 Amps at the time. If this sort of experiment is conducted, then make absolutely certain you have properly calculated and provided the required lead size in your container. I still haven't eliminated the possibility of arcing between the leads as the electrolyzer container is essentially a capacitor and over-energizing a capacitor will cause an arc.

8. Do not inhale the gas as you just don't know what is in there besides the HHO and some of the possibilities can mean an immediate and very long dirt nap.

9. If testing inside make sure to vent the gases to the outside as the Hydrogen will build up on the ceiling and ANY electrical spark will ignite it.

10. When using NaOH be sure you have a good quality source, such as Roebic Heavy Duty Drain Cleaner or Technical Grade NaOH with stated purity over 99%.

11. NaOH concentration should be low, 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water is usually plenty. A high Ammeter reading(greater than 15) in low temps(less than 125F) indicates too much NaOH which should be replaced or diluted with fresh water. The exception to this rule may be when testing a large number of plates, which I haven't progressed to yet.

12. If using city tap water, place it in a container to sit uncapped for at least 24 hours before using to allow any Chlorine gas to vent out. Granted the potential amount is small, but the less Chlorine you are dealing with the better.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Shop Safety Gear

The shop safety gear consists of providing a way to control shrapnel should an explosion occur. At this point I think I'll have to build a cage with hardware cloth and 2x4's.

Another shop safety gear item is a fire extinguisher.


Shop Safety Gear List



  • Hardware Cloth cage to conduct experiments in (Must build to suit)
  • Fire Extinguisher
  • Spray Bottle, 1qt
  • Vinager, Distiled White, 1qt




Safety Info Articles


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Previous: Personal Safety Gear

Personal Safety Gear

Since I'm conducting experiments to produce a flammable gas that requires the use of a caustic electrolyte I needed to take some safety precautions.

The first problem involves the caustic Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) which will heavily damage skin and flesh if it comes in contact with it. I'm also planning to conduct experiments with a number of compounds that are not safe to handle without gloves.

The second problem is the possibility of a violent explosion resulting in shrapnel.

Additionally, the safety gear can be divided into two groups, Personal Safety Gear and Shop Safety Gear. The difference is the personal safety gear is worn while the shop safety gear is not.

Personal Safety Gear List




  • Eye Goggles with side splash guards
  • Heavy Duty Rubber Gloves
  • Hearing Protectors
  • Rain Jacket






Far and away the most important item is the eye goggles since the electrolyte would cause considerable damage to an eye. The gloves and rain jacket likewise prevent caustic burns should an accident or explosion occur. The hearing protectors would muffle the sound of an explosion should one occur.

Flying shrapnel is still a concern and will be addressed further in a Shop Safety Gear article.

Safety Info Articles


Next: Shop Safety Gear
Previous: What On Earth am I Doing?